CN: brief mention of Christopher Columbus and attendant horrors (imperialism, rape, murder, etc.)
Went to Philly last weekend with my frubble1 Mischa. Originally the plan was to go to Philadelphia veeeery early in the morning because this Music Therapy group I had signed up for (which is Sundays at 9am) was supposed to start this weekend. However, there had not been enough intakes for the group, so the start date was postponed. Thus, since we did not have to be in Philadelphia veeeeeery early, and since we had gone to see a play (Articulate Theatre Company’s production of Thornton Wilder’s The Skin of Our Teeth) the night before and stayed out quite late, Mischa and I slept in on Sunday morning and didn’t get out of Staten Island until about 3pm.
Thus, we arrived in Philadelphia after 5pm with not much daylight left us. We stopped first at Sprinkle Kingdom, my former residence, to pick up the board games I had accidentally left there when I was moving out. I got to catch up a bit with Evan, Bridget, and Stephanie, which was wonderful. There are things about that house and the West Philadelphia neighborhood it’s located in that I miss these days, and those three are a huge part of it for me. Bridget, it turns out, has actually seen The Skin of Our Teeth, because her school had done it when she was in high school, and she agreed with me and Mischa about how totally weird that play is. They were all, unsurprisingly, incredibly busy, but stopping by on a Sunday meant that they weren’t too harassed to have a decent conversation.
After visiting with them, we drove over to the bed and breakfast Mischa had selected for our stay, La Reserve. It is one of the most charming buildings I’ve ever had the pleasure of staying in; it’s just absolutely filled with comfortable and gorgeous antiques. One of the first rooms you see upon entering is the parlor, which has a Steinway piano in it. Casual, as my Sprinkle Kingdom housemates would say.
Here’s a picture of the view from our bed that I shared on twitter upon arriving:
We hung out for a while, since I didn’t feel like moving at first; watched an episode of Fringe, which we’re slowly going through together. Only after that did I feel up to moving and move we did —— a thirty block walk down to a modern Israeli restaurant called Zahav, which means “Gold” in Hebrew. The food was pretty good, but the ambience and the service were what really made the place shine. We sat at the bar, since there were no tables available, and our bartenders Chris and Kyle were really friendly and informative. We chose a massive tasting menu, much of which we ended up taking to go because we were simply too full to eat any more of it.
After dinner, we followed the sight of a lighted ship to the pier, where we discovered that Philadelphia, too, had a seaport museum. It was closed, of course, at that late hour, but the sight of the ships all lit with fairy lights was really quite splendid. There was also a submarine attached to the warship, which I had never seen in the flesh before. There was also, next to the seaport museum, a four-masted tall ship which was being used as a bar and restaurant called Moshulu. It looked beautiful but I was troubled by how the Hawaiian imagery seemed pretty appropriative. Also I bet it’s super expensive to eat there.
Wandering further north, we came upon a monument to Christopher Columbus for the quincentenary of his “discovery” of America. The monument is ridiculously complimentary, attributing the titles of mathematician, cartographer, visionary, etc. to him.
I won’t deny that the appellation of explorer is appropriate to Columbus, but the rest I’ll dispute. Also I don’t believe he deserves credit for blundering upon the “New World” when a) there were already people there and b) the harm he did upon “discovering” them is beyond counting. Where’s the monument to the people he murdered, raped, enslaved? Hidden away in some corner of the city that’s less visible? Fuck that shit.
We caught a cab back to La Reserve, where we finished reading A Walk In The Woods by Bill Bryson (we’d been reading it together for half a year or so now) and then went to sleep. It wasn’t the most comfortable night, but we woke up early enough to take advantage of the complimentary continental breakfast and to meet some of our fellow travelers. There was a Russian singer named Dasha who was auditioning for a music school here in Philly; she had spent two weeks in NYC prior to this. There were also three women, all related, two of whom were visiting the third from Dallas; I forget their names and Mischa can’t remember either.
After breakfast we went to the Franklin Institute which was like the Boston Museum of Science but even cooler and more interactive. All the physics demos were quite a workout and my arms and legs were pretty tired after the whole thing. We went around the corner to the Free Library of Philadelphia where there was a Fraktur exhibit that was really beautiful. It and some of the calligraphy on display at the library made Mischa and me want to learn to do calligraphy. Around the corner from there was a bookstore called the Friends of the Free Library which had a wide selection of books, all for $3 or less. Thankfully, we didn’t realize that those prices applied to the whole store or we would never have made it out of there. As it was, I spent fifteen dollars on books there. Well, $14.15 on books and the other $0.85 went to the Catticus and Chaucer fund (yes, that’s the name of their cats. They had cats!). And I don’t know how much Mischa spent on books, but I’m sure it was similar.
Two of the books I bought, by the way, were from a series of books about Nancy Clue and the Hardly Boys, which, as you can imagine, are a parody of the Nancy Drew and the Hardy Boys books, but queer. It was SO CUTE. I was a huge Nancy Drew fan as a kid, so seeing a casually LGBT version of the characters I’ve loved felt really affirming.
We had two more stops before we returned to Staten Island—John’s Roast Pork, which is a Beard Award winner, which I guess is a big deal for chefs, and the Princeton Record Exchange, which Mischa cannot fail to visit anytime she goes south of New York City. As the sun went down, my mood started to drop as well, though, so I’m not going to talk about that part of our trip.
I will end, instead, by saying that our time in Philly was very busy, and I am not at all used to taking day trips to other cities, but I think I liked it. Also, it’s a dreadful thing that I know the Friends of the Free Library bookstore exists, now, because I can’t imagine that I’ll ever again escape entering it whenever I’m in Philadelphia, which, as soon as the Music Therapy group starts, is going to be a lot. And you know I’m not allowed in bookstores, because then I’ll spend money on books.
1 frubble: total joy over someone else’s happiness; compersion; or, when Mischa and I use it, it refers to each other. 🙂